Pushing Tin
The instant I heard the TSA agent at the airport ask, “Is this your bag?” I knew the reason. Tucked in my carry-on, where two cans of spicy chickpeas and in a second tote, also pulled aside, a couple of cans of roasted eggplant and tomatoes awaited the trip across the Pacific. As the agent opened the bag and picked out the cans, she looked at me with a knowing smile and said “These are good,” I nodded back in agreement.
Extra airport scrutiny does not discourage me — the excitement of opening a can of sardines in olive oil and preserved lemon or salmon in Fly by Jing crunchy chili crisp oil, more than make up for it. Canned foods don’t usually bring thoughts of thrilling flavors and varieties of textures, more likely bland peas or SPAM are top of mind. But please, think again. You can make a diverse meal with just a can opener and good bread.
Preserved fish, smoked oysters, mussels, varieties of pâté and peppers, vegetables and olives are all deliciously available in cans and jars — the ultimate instant gratification, no advance planning required meal. The Spanish and Italians are masters at both producing amazing, canned products and using the products in delicious tapas and pastas. Think Ferran Adrià of El Bulli fame, while his dishes showcasing preserved foods are next level, you too can up your game by keeping a few basic tins and jars on hand.
A few staples to consider for your pantry are anchovies packed in salt or olive oil, oysters, smoked trout roe (Fête in downtown Honolulu serves a mean deviled egg topped with smoked trout roe), an assortment of beans and red peppers and maybe a tin of pate. The ultimate luxe tinned food is caviar — in keeping with the no fuss theme, a dollop of caviar on a creme fraiche topped potato chip is always easy and next level. While the hashtag #CaviarTok reportedly received more than a billion views in 2023 and the caviar with Pringles trend was so popular on TikTok that The Caviar Co. (pictured far left) now sells boxed sets of Pringles with a flight of caviar, eating caviar on a reconstituted “potato chip” might not be the best way to enjoy a caviar splurge. However, smoked trout roe on a wasabi potato chip and burrata cheese has definite potential!
Onda Pasta has been making fresh pasta and sauces for over a decade in Honolulu, mainly selling to markets and restaurants. Its owners Matthew Resich of Pizza Mamo and Brick Fire Tavern and Encore Saloon owner, Danny Kaaialii recently decided to expand the offerings of Onda Pasta by opening a shop, Onda Pasta & Provisions next door to Brick Fire Tavern in Kaimuki. Besides selling fresh pasta and sauces to the public, the provisions shop will offer a wide array of tinned fishes, including cult favorite salmon in Fly by Jing chili crisp oil. Resich says they are focused on providing more visibility to American brands but will also include canned and jarred offerings from Italy. A few years ago, this would have been challenging, but brands committed to sustainability and ethically sourced foods harvested at the peak of freshness have made canned foods chic. Patagonia (yes, the apparel company) produces a wide selection of tinned mussels, white anchovies and sardines (pictured left). My favorite is Fishwife, makers of Fly by Jing tinned salmon. You can find the Fishwife brand at Onda Pasta & Provisions.
Next time you think about making a charcuterie board, open a few tins and jars instead. Arrange on a nice tray and serve with a side of warm crusty bread. For a twist on a local classic — soda crackers with tuna and mayo, open a tin of Fishwife sardines with preserved lemon and top Diamond Bakery soda crackers (must be Diamond Bakery) with a chunk of the citrusy sardines. Pair with an icy cold vodka martini that’s shaken — the icy slivers produced by shaking are a must, and while I admit I have no idea why, it seems to make the lemon in the sardines pop.
Cheers to less cooking and more time at the table with friends!